FYI Articles 3

Basic Avian Care

Contributed by Dr. Paul Stewart

 

 

General Information

There are a number of Avian Species:

 Gender:   Not all species are sexually dimorphic (distinguishable)

 Life expectancy:

 Purchasing a bird (read, read, read!!!)

 Talking ability:

 

Husbandry

Caging and shelter requirements:

 Perch Requirements:

 Nest box or hide box:

Substrate:

 Lighting Requirements:

 Temperature:

 Humidity:   To mimic natural environment of species kept

 Ventilation:

 Water: (changed daily, bowl disinfected regularly)

 Grooming:

 Exercise and handling:

 Socialization and behavior:

 Biting:  (Call for details)

Why use a towel for restraint?

 Environmental enrichment:

 Dangers of the household

 

Psittacine Nutrition

 -Below are some general guidelines to help with feeding Harrison’s bird diets:

1)      Coarse grind for larger birds (Macaws, Cockatoos, Amazons, Eclectus, African Greys, Pionus, Senegals

2)     Fine grind for Quakers, Cockatiels, Lovebirds, Budgies, Parrotlets, Doves, Pigeons.

3)     Mash for Passerines (Canaries, Finches)

4)     High Potency Formula: for birds that are growing, breeding and moulting

5)     Adult Lifetime Formula: for adult birds that are not ill, moulting or reproducing.

6)     The amount to feed can be found in the Harrison’s brochure, but may vary according to the individual.

 

What we offer at Valley Animal Hospital:

1)      Preventative medicine consultation

2)     Therapeutic medicine, surgery and hospitalization

3)     Laser and radio-surgery

4)     Ultrasonography

5)     Behavioral and nutritional consultation

6)     Grooming (wing trimming, nail grinding/trimming, beak grinding (cosmetic and corrective)

7)     Emergency/intensive care

8)     Euthanasia Services when unfortunately becomes necessary

 

The Avian Background Sheet

Weighing: (in the exam room) (in grams) 1 kg=1000 grams

 

The Avian Life Cycle Consultation and Exam

 

 

The Green Iguana

          (Iguana iguana)

Contributed by Dr. Paul Stewart

 

Care and Feeding

Native habitat: Central America and northern South America (tropical- near water)

Green iguanas are arboreal (tree-dwellers) as wee as agile swimmers. Thus they require plenty of vertical cage space, perches and a soaking/bathing area with fresh water.

They are oviparous (egg layers) laying up to 40 eggs per clutch. The eggs require 70-75 days to incubate at 85 degrees F. Multi-clutching is common if day-length, nutrition and temperature are adequate.

They are poikilothermic (cold-blooded). Iguanas and other reptiles depend on their caretakers to provide safe heat sources and temperature gradients for thermoregulation.

Adult body weight: 8-11 lbs. (22 lbs highest recorded).

Adult length: 4-5 ft. (6½ ft. longest recorded).

Life expectancy in captivity: 12 years (>90% die before 3 years because of improper care).

Anatomy: 3-chambered heart, salt glands in the nasal cavities, regenerative tails, no diaphragm, no external ear canal, urine and urates are produced by the kidneys, renal portal system, dewlap, reproductive system more bird-like)

Sex determination: Males hemipenal bulges are usually visible at three years of age. Femoral glands appear at two years of age. Masculine head, jaw, crest at 4-6 years of age. DNA Zoogen blood gender test can be performed at any age.

Environmental temperature:  85-100 degrees Fahrenheit. (POTZ) needed for proper digestion, growth, healing, reproduction and immune system. Radiant heat sources are best (basking bulbs, ceramic heating elements and under-cage heat sources) for focal basking sites (95-100 degrees F). Space heaters are more effective to warm entire room to ambient temperature (80-85 degrees F). A heat gradient should be provided by providing multiple basking sites with different temperatures ranging from 90-100 degrees F) this should be at one end of the cage and perhaps high in the cage where perches can allow places for the iguana to thermo-regulate.  The rest of the cage should be maintained at 85 degrees F with the coolest end being no cooler than 80 degrees F. Monitor by maintaining multiple thermometers in the cage.

Environmental humidity: 70-80% can be achieved with humidifiers, frequent cage misting, evaporative water sources, live non-toxic potted plants (hibiscus, spider-plants). Large sized freshwater tub for soaking and swimming.  A hygrometer is needed to monitor humidity.

Lighting: Full spectrum including UVB (wavelength 290-320).  Special bulbs:  Zoo Med Iguana bulb, Zoo Med Repti-Sun 5.0, Vita-lite fluorescent tubes (must be within 18 inches of the lizard to work. Must be changed every 6 months since UVB output will decrease.

Direct sunlight is recommended but care should be taken not to over-heat the lizard. Always provide a shady escape and predator-proof cages. Monitor temperatures at all times. Glass and most Plexiglas will filter out the ultraviolet waves that are needed for Vitamin D activation.

Photoperiod: Most tolerate 12 hours of daylight year round, but can range from 14 hours per day in the summer to 10 hours in the winter. Light timers are very useful to control this.

Cage design:  For iguanas less than 2 feet long, 30-55 gallon tank or similar sized iguana proof cage. For larger iguanas, a tall custom-built cage should be provided, made of non-porous material, easy to clean, disinfect, ventilate, heat and humidify. 32:1 bleach solution can be used to clean cage and accessories, but should be rinsed well before use to prevent irritation to the pet.

Substrate: Newspaper, bound Astroturf are best. Iguanas will ingest gravel, sand, wood shavings and chips. These can cause intestinal obstruction and are considered inappropriate.

Diet:

Consists of a mixture of the following ingredients:

1)      60% Calcium-rich vegetables: turnip greens, mustard greens, beet greens, kale, collard greens, bok choy, chard, dandelion greens, alfalfa, romaine, escarole (choose at least two types per feeding).

2)    30% Mixed vegetables: squash, carrots, sweet potato, bell pepper, broccoli, peas, beans, sprouts.

3)    10% Fruits: mango, papaya, melon, strawberry, tomato, banana, grape, apple, and peaches.

Hatchlings: (up to 14 inches in length): Feed twice daily a mixture of finely chopped pre-washed and soaked vegetables and fruit.

Juveniles: (14-36 inches in length): Feed daily a mixture of medium-chopped vegetables and fruit.

May supplement hatchling and juvenile diet with a pre-soaked grower ration of rabbit pellets containing alfalfa (Oxbow, Kaytee).

Adult: Feed daily to every other day a mixture of coarsely chopped vegetables and fruit. 

Commercial diets: We cannot recommend these as a base diet because there are no long-term studies to support they are balanced to prevent nutritional deficiencies. As a supplement, they may be suitable.

Vitamin and mineral supplements: Are often used, however some may have toxic levels of fat-soluble vitamins and can cause harm if dosed inappropriately. Pure calcium carbonate (crushed oyster shell/REP-CAL with no Vitamin D is commercially available) can be supplemented and may be needed in growing or reproductively active iguanas. Ultimately, focusing on a balanced diet of fresh vegetables and fruit should be the first priority.

Medical problems:

§         Renal disease

§         Secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism

§         Abscesses   

§         Fractures

§         Egg binding

§         Salmonella

§         Mites

§         Tail injuries

§         G. I. foreign body

 

Blood collection:  ventral abdominal vein, ventral tail vein (lymph contamination can occur).

Catheterization:  intra-osseous (femur, tibia, humerous….. just kidding)

Restraint:  Green iguanas can cause serious bite wounds. Hatchlings- a single-handed grip around the chest and abdomen is best. Medium-sized iguanas require a two-handed grip, one hand around the shoulders holding forelimbs back. The other hand folding the rear legs back at the pelvis. Tails can autotomize and should not be used for restraint unless just to control sideways motion. Gloves should be used for larger iguanas. Nail trims can be performed before extensive handling occurs. This is facilitated with vet-wrap and cotton wrapped gently around the skull, applying very mild pressure on the eyes. This technique also can be useful in radiography.

Transport:  Clients should be encouraged to transport reptiles with a safe heat source (hot water bottle under a towel in an insulated box to help maintain their pet at optimum temperature during transport. Temperature of the box should be monitored with a thermometer to make sure the reptile is not becoming overheated by the heat source. All reptiles should arrive in a carrier or box to minimize stress to the iguana during travel or in the waiting area.

  

What Valley Animal Hospital can offer our clients with iguanas and other reptiles:

For apparently healthy lizard:

§         New pet/client physical evaluation and consultation.

§         Annual life-cycle consultation (reptiles hide symptoms of disease better than most animals).

§         Parasite evaluation (bring fresh fecal specimen).

§         Information on proper husbandry and feeding.

§         Preventative medicine instead of more expensive alternatives when the iguana is ill.

§         A healthier, happier pet with a longer life expectancy.

§         Castration for behavioral disorders (iguanas- case by case).

§         Ovarectomy/Ovarohysterectomy (precautionary or therapeutic).

§         Microchipping

§         Grooming:  Nail trim/grind.

For the sick lizard:

§         Advanced diagnostics, medicine, surgery and hospitalization

§         House call consultation for larger collections.

 

REMEMBER-LIZARDS ARE PEOPLE, TOO!!!

 

Recommended Lighting for

Reptiles and Amphibians

 Contributed by Dr. Paul Stewart

To keep your reptile or amphibian happy and healthy, the proper lighting is essential. Many species need light from the ultraviolet range that few bulbs offer. UVB refers to the ultraviolet range that helps these animals activate vitamin D in their bodies to promote normal bone growth, egg development and muscle function. Pets we see that are under improper lighting have suffered from bent or broken bones, egg binding, muscle weakness, tremors and cardiac failure. Many of these animals had been getting proper calcium in their diet but were unable to utilize it.

 There are many “reptile bulbs” available, but few actually produce UVB. Those that do are typically expensive, but well worth the investment. Two types are available. Fluorescent tube bulbs and incandescent (usually mercury vapor) bulbs. The term “full spectrum” is often misused, so do not be fooled.

 If a fluorescent tube is used, additional heat in the basking area can be provided as a ceramic heating element or a non-UV incandescent bulb of the right wattage to provide an appropriate heat gradient.

 Bulbs commonly available:

Positioning of the bulbs is equally important. Glass will filter out the essential UVB rays, so the bulb must be positioned in a place where it can directly shine down on the basking area. If a fluorescent bulb is used, it should be positioned within 2 feet of the pet, but in a way that is not an electrical or thermal risk.  If a mercury halide bulb is used, it can be farther away (2-4 feet), but also should not be positioned as to not overheat your pet or pose electrical risk. Generally, all light sources are placed a safe distance above and outside of your pet’s cage with screen and adequate air space between the bulb and your pet.

 Snakes, most amphibians and nocturnal (active at night) lizard species do well on lower output UVB lights such as Zoo Med Reptisun 2.0 UVB or Vitalite bulbs.

 The following species or groups of species require higher output UVB lighting such as Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 UVB or Iguana Light 5.0 UVB fluorescent bulbs. Alternatively, in larger enclosures, a mercury vapor bulb can be used to provide both heat and high output UVB range light. These bulbs put out a large amount of heat and must be placed a safe distance from the animal to prevent burns. 

                   *Uromastyx and Bearded dragons do well on higher UVB such as Desert Sun 8.0 bulbs by E.S.U.

 Consult your local pet store for availability of these bulbs. Be sure to change fluorescent bulbs every 6 months as the UVB output gradually decreases to an ineffective level.

 It is paramount to research the specific needs of the species you keep as there is so much more to keeping reptiles healthy than proper lighting. Your pet looks to you for the condition of their existence in all areas of husbandry. Caring properly for a reptile or amphibian can be very challenging, but also very rewarding. 

 Regular veterinary examination and consultation is needed to discuss preventative care as well as to diagnose and treat diseases early. Valley Animal Hospital is happy to offer a wide variety of services for these unusual pets.

 

 

Psittacosis in Birds

 Contributed by Dr. Paul Stewart

 

Introduction:

Chlamydiosis is the disease process (in psittacine birds) caused by a bacteria-like organism known as Chlamydia psittici.  It remains a very significant disease to the bird industry because it poses hazard to birds, humans and potentially other mammals. As well as being difficult to diagnose, chlamydial infections can occur without symptoms and spread rapidly if conditions are right. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the relevant facts about this disease to help bird owners make educated decisions about their pets.

Synonyms:

Chlamydiosis, One-eyed cold, Ornithosis, Parrot fever, Psittacosis. This is not to be confused with the venereal disease occurring in humans, which is non-transmissible to birds.

Cause:

Chlamydia psittici - (intracellular bacterial parasite) Many different strains exist. Some affect mammals as well as birds. The organism depends on the host’s cellular machinery for energy, and on the cell’s membrane to protect it.

Historical:

Chlamydia is a disease of birds that can be transmitted to humans. The disease was 1st identified in 1874 (in humans). The organism was isolated in 1930 when more than 800 cases (200-300 deaths) occurred. The disease originated in South America from a captive bird collection. From 1988-1998, over 810 cases have occurred, worldwide. Human induced conditions and procedures are responsible for this disease in our society.

Who is at risk?

Birds:  Although chlamydia occurs naturally in wild populations of birds, it is most common in developed countries in captive bird populations, pet birds and poultry operations. There have been 130 species of birds diagnosed.  Psittacines, passerines, anseriformes, columbiformes, galliformes, ramphastidae, raptors, and ratites have been implicated.  At least 57 of the 130 species are psittacines. The disease is most commonly associated with pet stores and poorly managed avian collections. Young birds are generally more susceptible than older birds. South American species tend to have a higher incidence than Asian, Australian or African species. Exceptions do exist (cockatiels, budgerigars)

People: Of the people infected from 1988-1998, seventy percent were exposed to psittacine birds such as parakeets, cockatiels, amazons and macaws.  Forty three percent were bird owners; ten percent were pet store employees. Others in the group included poultry producers and processors, veterinarians, veterinary technicians, avian quarantine personnel, pigeon fanciers, laboratory personnel, farmers, wildlife rehabilitators, zoo personnel and construction workers (from pigeon droppings). Brief exposure can cause infection, so some individuals in the group had no recollection of bird exposure. Immuno-suppressed and immuno-naive individuals are at a greater risk of infection and disease (infants, juveniles, elderly, AIDS and cancer patients). 

Other mammals/species: Strains of Chlamydia psittici have been know to infect livestock (cattle, sheep, goats, swine) and companion animals (horses, dogs, cats, guinea pigs).

How common is Chlamydia in birds?

Incidence is estimated at 1% in wild populations (infected or carriers). The Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV) estimated that of the 40 million birds in captivity, chlamydia has a 15-30% prevalence rate (29% S. Amer., 30-70% Germany). An estimated 80% of those infected show no symptoms. 

How is the disease transmitted?

The organism is usually transmitted through inhalation or ingestion of fecal material, feather dust, urine, oral, ocular and respiratory secretions (even crop milk in pigeons). Transovarial transmission has been documented in ducks, gulls and budgies. Airborne spread occurs when dust is disturbed during cage cleaning or when the bird flaps its wings. Mouth-to-beak contact is possible as well as if the bird sneezes. Blood sucking parasites may also transmit the organism.

How long before symptoms begin to show?

The typical presentation is a bird that becomes ill 2-4 months after purchase. Depending on strain virulence, incubation of the virus can take days to weeks, even years. Severity of symptoms depends on virulence factors, number of organisms, age, species and condition of bird, stress factors (i.e. transport, feed changes, overcrowding, breeding, concurrent disease), and treatment efficacy.

Why is chlamydia so pathogenic?

Intracellular replication protects it against the hosts immune system.  Chlamydia also produces toxins that can be worse than the organism. This toxin has low antibody producing ability, making it difficult for a bird to have long-term immunity. The target organs for the toxin are the spleen, liver and kidneys. 

Presence in mixed collections can influence species adaptability, toxicity and virulence. 

Chlamydia can be shed for 10 days prior to onset of clinical symptoms and without symptoms.  

Also, chlamydia weakens a bird’s immune system, making it more susceptible to other infections (i.e. viral, bacterial, mycoplasmal, fungal, parasitic). Since some of these agents can cause similar symptoms, chlamydia can often be missed as the primary disease

What are the symptoms of Chlamydia in birds?

Depression, decreased appetite, weight loss, ruffled feathers, tremors, yellow-green diarrhea, ocular and nasal discharge, difficulty in breathing, scant dark green feces, increased urate production, discoloration of the urine or urates, hypothermia, dehydration, feather picking, decreased egg production, neurological symptoms (seizures, paralysis), even sudden death.

Most birds decline over 1-3 weeks, once symptoms arise. Symptoms and disease process can vary remarkably. Commonly, very few symptoms are present. Often the disease is dormant until a stressful episode occurs. Many cockatiels and amazons have been non-symptomatic for years. Disease severity depends on the strain and the dose of the chlamydia, the presence of other pathogens, species and immune status of the host, and the way the disease is treated. Symptoms and disease may be more pronounced in different species than origin species.  

In ducks and geese, sinusitis and conjunctivitis are the most common problems. In pigeons and doves, chlamydia causes sinusitis, air sacculitis and hepatitis.

Poopology:

It is important to know what normal and abnormal stools look like.  A change in color or consistency could suggest an illness.

The three parts to a bird’s stool:

1) Feces- long tubular curled material, usually tan to green in color. Should be formed.
2) Urates- white chalky material, a by-product of the kidneys. Should be pure white.
3) Urine- should be clear and colorless and usually in small amounts.

Variations from this can be seen with different species, diets, stress, disease and reproductive status. Consult your veterinarian if abnormal stool is seen consistently.

Gross findings:

            enlarged liver, spleen
            peritonitis, air sacculitis, pericarditis
            bronchopneumonia
            enteritis
            nephrosis
            organ degeneration from toxins
            reproductive organs
            bone marrow disease leading to anemia
            chronic disease can see cirrhosis of liver and kidneys
            Damage can occur in the liver, kidneys, intestine, lungs, air sacs, spleen and heart(pericarditis).

Lab findings:
        anemia
            high WBC
            high liver/tissue enzymes and bile acids
            elevated globulins (antibodies)

What are the symptoms in humans?

Inapparent illness to abrupt-onset systemic illness (like pneumonia). Symptoms include high fever, malaise, headaches, chills, myalgia, respiratory disease, influenza-like symptoms, rash, fetal death, arthritis, bruising or bleeding (thrombocytopenia), can progress to pneumonia, liver and kidney disease and central nervous system disease. Toxins can destroy liver and kidney tissue.

In humans, incubation occurs in 5-14 days.  An average of 139 cases per year in humans occur. Only 5 humans have died from chlamydiosis.  It is rarely fatal if treated correctly. Treatment consists of Doxycycline or tetracycline for 3 weeks/ erythromycin (children less than 9 years old or pregnant women).

Take-home message: Keep your physician informed of your exposure to birds.

How does chlamydia affect other mammals?

Livestock (abortion, encephalitis, polyarthritis), dogs, cats (pneumonitis, rhinitis, keratitis), guinea pigs (conjunctivitis)

Dogs, cats, swine, horses and man are likely dead-end hosts. Cattle, sheep and goats can shed the organisms. (reproductive fluids)

State veterinarian protocol:

A reportable disease.  Establishment will be closed and quarantined with all exposed birds treated.  Current importation regulations are not strict enough to prevent chlamydia-positive birds from being imported. Shipping requires screening tests in some states.

How can I find out if my bird has chlamydia?

No single test can diagnose chlamydia in all species of bird. No single test can guarantee the bird is disease free. A combination of the bird’s history, physical exam findings, routine and special diagnostic test results, and on occasion, response to therapy are how chlamydiosis is diagnosed. 

Culture: of feces/feather dust/tissue (positive = positive, negative = not sure). Several days of droppings can be saved for improving culture results. Keep moist with damp paper towel.  Cloacal swabs are better. Culture is the only way to detect the living organism.

(This test is sensitive, but only if organism survives) 80%. No false positives.

Serology: A positive titer means exposure has occurred, past or present. Serial titers are most useful. A negative titer could mean any of the following: 1) no exposure. 2) very early exposure. 3) an immuno-naive bird/baby bird. 4) a species of bird not compatible for the test.  (Sensitive as screening test, but only if timed correctly)

PCR: (polymerase chain reaction) Michigan lab. Sensitive and specific. This test is performed on feces or cloacal/airway swabs.

IFA:  (Immuno-flourescent antibody): Sensitive annd specific. Samples needed are conjunctival or tissue samples (liver/ spleen/ air sac).

Antigen test (ELISA-enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay): Performed on feces, feather dust, respiratory secretions, tissue samples. (Sensitive if enough organisms are present in the sample in adequate numbers) 84% Some false positives from bacterial contamination (Staph. aureus, actinobacillus, acinetobacter). Kodak Surecell (ELISA) has had problems with false positives but less than other ELISAs with cross reacting bacteria. The best antigen test available (or not available-off the market).

DNA probe: Very sensitive and specific. Can be run on any sample including blood. 

Histopathology with special staining procedures: his test identifies the organism in macrophage located in tissue samples. Biopsy or post mortem tissue samples.

How is chlamydia treated?

Suspect birds are separated from healthy birds and people. Long-term treatment is required because drugs only lower the organism’s defense until the host’s immune system can remove the organism in the damaged host cell. If latently infected with the organism in the host’s macrophage, tetracyclines won’t touch them. Also some resistance is developing due to inappropriate use of antibiotics.

Treatment consists of doxycycline (Vibravenos IM/Vibramycin hyclate IV) injections every 5 days for 45 days. This protocol is best because less renal damage occurs, there is lower risk of fungal over growth, doxycycline has greater activity against the organism and causes less immunosuppression than other tetracyclines. Bone abnormalities in young birds can occur on tetracyclines. Chlortetracycline in the food (????) For 45 days is also used, however it is difficult to prove how much drug the animal gets or if the bird starves itself due to the diet change. This method tends to be stressful than injections.  Baytril is also used as injectable, oral or in medicated food, but is not the drug of choice. Oral medictions such as baytril and tetracyclines tend to be more stressful than injections an may predispose to resistance. Although medical therapy may provide a cure, some birds remain latently infected for life after treatment. Also, no natural immunity occurs after treatment. Birds are always potentially susceptible, even if completely cleared of the organism. 

In an outbreak, clinically sick and seropositive birds are treated. It is not recommended to treat birds that are healthy on physical exam and seronegative.  State regulations require treatment of all exposed birds.

The environment should also be addressed when an outbreak occurs. Regular cleaning and disinfecting environment with dilute bleach (½ cup in one gallon of water) being sure to rinse the bleach well and ventilate the environment before returning the birds to the area.

Remove uncleanable items (wood, rope, etc.). Use plastic and metal (stainless steel) in treatment cages. Keep feather dust to a minimum, wet-mop with a disinfectant. Protective clothing, surgical cap and mask and rubber or latex gloves are indicated.  Change cages daily: Biohazard disposal for chlamydia-positive birds’ cage papers, droppings, floor sweepings. The organism can survive outside the host for several months. Fecal material and other bacterial by-products can decrease stability. Hydrogen peroxide will destroy chlamydia.

Why is there no Vaccine for chlamydia?

Since the organism is not very antigenic to the host, too many antigens are needed for the vaccine and it would be very likely to cause too serious of a host response or hypersensitivity.

How can it be prevented?

Purchase your bird from a reputable breeder. Ask what testing has been done on the bird and when it was done. Know the bird’s medical, environmental and dietary history before purchase. Exposure potential is an important factor as well.  Plan on quarantining for at least 45 days (including birds that have been out to shows, fairs, exhibits). Have titers checked at the end +/- at the beginning of quarantine.  For a thorough health screen, a pre- or post-purchase exam, fecal, serum chemistry, hematology, protein electrophoresis, and screening tests for psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD) virus, polyomavirus, and chlamydia are needed.  Maintain accurate records: date of purchase, species, source, medical records, band # and disposition. All breeding birds in a collection should be sero-negative. Regular cleaning and disinfecting should be performed. Do not allow free ranging birds in the aviary.  Avoid purchasing or selling birds that are ill or heve been exposed to the disease. 

In the aviary: do not stack cages.  Position cages as not to promote cross contamination by the organism. Use newspaper under wire mesh as substrate. Clean food and water dishes daily with disinfectant and rinse with clean water. Negative pressure ventilation systems (exhaust fans) help to promote clean air without stirring up dust particles.

If my bird has chlamydia, should I have it put to sleep?

An ethical dilemma.  An option is to treat the bird and screen regularly with PCR test to detect the organism in the bloodstream (every 6 months).

 

 

Treating Common Behavior Problems in Parrots

                                                                       

Often treating behavioral problems means treating the problem husbandry.

  

Normal behavior in wild parrots: (In order to understand and treat our pet’s abnormal behavior, we must first understand their behaviors in the wild.)

 

Common inappropriate attempts to modify behaviors

-Hitting, grabbing beak, yelling, intimidating (shaking the cage) and remote punishment (spray bottle or throwing objects) are all more likely to cause harm than good. 

More effective responses

-The “earthquake”-slightly shaking the hand they are perched upon when they bite.

-The “drill sergeant”-repeating ‘step-up’ several times in a row.

-The “time-out”-either back to a covered cage or a cage in a different location with no stimulation, food, water or toys of interest for short period of time.

-Most problems can be addressed by understanding your bird’s natural history, biology and behavior in the wild to provide proper nutrition, housing, exercise, social structure, training and environmental enrichment.

 

 Selected Abnormal Parrot Behavior:

  1. Destructive behavior

-Normal investigative, ingestive behavior.

 Treatment: Rotate toys weekly. Provide appropriate safe objects for them to chew (such as untreated pine blocks, black and white print newspaper, brown paper backs and cardboard paper towel rolls. Enforce other behaviors through basic training. Provide a bird-proof area for foraging and exercise.

  2. Inappropriate vocalization (AKA=Screaming)

-Normal behavior must be ruled out. Is it a location call? Has the behavior been enforced by the owner?

-Often enforced by responding to the bird with attention, rewarding with a food item to quiet them down or by removing the bird from the cage, even yelling at the bird can be taken as positive feedback.

 Treatment: Involves ignoring the behavior, training them to whisper and reward quiet behavior, or by giving a time-out, covering or removing the cage and bird to a place of isolation and no stimulation.

 3. Aggressive behavior 

-Most commonly associated with territoriality (to a mate, cage or food)

-Anticipation of pain/predation

-Learned behavior-biting for a favorable outcome

-Redirected aggression (which is why we don’t put parrots on our shoulders)

 Treatment: Avoidance- Do not approach a bird that acts on-guard. Train to step-up to a perch. Positive reinforcement should be given for good behavior. Operant conditioning via teacher/student relationship (www.GoodBirdInc.com) is essential.

 4. Feather destructive behavior

-Cause may be medical, behavioral or both.

-Behavior-related causes include: stress, anxiety, iatrogenic, separation anxiety, overcrowding, mate incompatibility, sexual frustration, boredom and attention seeking.

 Treatment: Address underlying cause (works best when caught early). Regular training, foraging, routine exercise and bathing, adequate toy rotation, Provide items to satisfy their investigative, ingestive behavior. Occasionally, psychotropic agents (Haldol, Doxepin, Prozac and Elavil) are use in conjunction with behavior modification to help break the cycle.

 5. Excessive sexual behavior

-Regurgitation to toys, objects and owners

-Masturbation (can lead to cloacal prolapse)

-Chronic egg production (can lead to calcium depletion and oviduct prolapse)

 Treatment: Discontinue hand feeding and handling for appropriate length of time. Then, convert to teacher/student relationship through daily training session. Remove toy or object of interest. If chronic egg laying, nesting material should be removed, eggs produced should be left in place (can be boiled/frozen or exchanged for bird-safe wooden eggs). Some species benefit from decreasing duration of daylight. Dietary needs should be addressed and optimized (not maximized). Environment can be altered regularly to inhibit egg production (Is it safe to lay here?). Leuprolide or chorionic gonadotropin injections are occasionally needed to suppress reproductive activity.

 

Enriching a caged bird’s life in a constructive manner can open the door to a healthier relationship with them.

 

 

 

blue rotating circleBack to the FYI Page

lightning ballBack To Main Page

Hit Counter

SITE MAP        Main_Entrance       Home        What's_New       Our_Doctors       Our_Staff       Our_Services       Virtual_Tour       Cool_Links       FYI       Laser       Contact_Us       Wellness       WebCam       Gallery      Whiskers'_Page       Guestbook       Web_Special          Accolades