For Your Information Articles #2
A quick reference on "How to Recognize, Diagnose and Manage" for our companion animals!
What are common clinical signs to look for in a pet that indicate screening for diabetes?
weight loss
increased drinking/increased urination (PU/PD)
excessive appetite
poor hair coat/ poor muscle tone
cloudiness of the eyes/cataracts urinary tract infections/other infections
signs of systemic illness: vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, coma,
acetone breath (smells like nail polish remover)
How do we test for diabetes?
Blood glucose instant check is the quickest way to check blood glucose levels and only requires one drop of blood. Normal range in dogs or cats is 80-180 mg/dl. Non-diabetic stressed animals can be mildly elevated temporarily (especially stressed cats)- in this case, diabetes should be confirmed by looking for sugar spilling into the urine with a urinalysis. If the blood glucose level is consistently >200mg/dl, it will be present in the urine, and this is definitive for diagnosing diabetes.
What exactly IS diabetes?
Diabetes is a complex metabolic disorder that occurs when the B cells of the pancreas can’t secrete insulin or insulin doesn’t work on the body’s cells. Insulin is the body’s chemical that allows glucose (sugar) to enter cells and be converted into energy. Diabetes is considered “starvation in the face of plenty”- because the body doesn’t recognize the blood sugar as a food source and uses muscle protein and fat reserves instead. This negative balance stimulates the hunger center and causes increased appetite. Increased drinking occurs because water follows sugar in the body, so when sugar spills into the urine, it causes dehydration due to increased urine loss. Therefore, the pet drinks more to make up for the water loss. Sugar is also a great food source for bacteria, and promotes bacteria to grow in the urine and increase risk for an infection. Cataracts occur due to abnormal glucose metabolism in the lens and influx of water causing displacement of the lens fibers and cloudiness.
What kind of diabetes do animals get- I’ve heard of Type I and II in people, what is the difference?
Type I diabetes or insulin dependent diabetes mellitus (IDDM): This is when cells in the pancreas are destroyed or absent, and there is low production of insulin. This is the most common form in children, cats, and dogs. Risk factors in animals include: pancreatitis, immune mediated destruction of pancreatic cells (more common in dogs), inherited disorders (Keeshonds can be congenitally born with low numbers of B cells), or amyloidosis (a rare storage disease in cats). This type of diabetes responds to insulin therapy; however, it can be more severe in clinical signs, including infections and ketoacidosis when in severe states, so proper regulation and monitoring is essential to success.
Type II diabetes, or non-insulin dependent diabetes mellitus (NIDDM): This condition occurs when the pancreas is secreting insulin, but the body is resistant to the insulin. This is much more common in cats and older humans (adult onset diabetes). It is rare in dogs, but up to 30-50% of diabetic cats fall in this category. The disease is usually less severe than IDDM, and is often managed with dietary therapy and oral hypoglycemics (this is not treatable with insulin). Risk factors for this include: excessive growth hormone, obesity, elevated progesterone levels in intact female dogs, Cushing’s disease (adrenal disease), and hypothyroidism.
What are common laboratory findings in diabetes?
Urinalysis: very dilute urine (due to increased volume from sugar), protein loss, bacterial infections, sugar present, also ketones if Type I diabetes.
Blood Chemistries: hyperglycemia (increased blood sugar, often as high as 400-500 mg/dl). Increased liver enzymes (ALT/ALP) possible if hepatic lipidosis (abnormal mobilization of fat due to abnormal metabolism). Decreased electrolytes (sodium, chloride, potassium) due to increased fluid loss. Increased lipase if concurrent pancreatitis. Increased kidney values (BUN/CREA) either due to dehydration or acidosis. Also increased cholesterol due to altered metabolism.
CBC: Often normal, unless concurrent infection causes increase in WBC’s. RBC count can be increased if dehydrated.
Now my animal is diagnosed with diabetes… how do we manage it nutritionally?
Proper management requires a combination of insulin therapy, dietary management, and regulation….
Dietary therapy: High fiber diet is important with soluble fiber and complex carbohydrates (avoid simple sugars that cause big rises and falls in blood sugar during the day). If a patient is underweight, put them on a high calorie low fiber diet until optimal weight is achieved, and then switch to a high fiber diet. Avoid semi-moist and canned foods: high in disaccharides and propylene glycol which increase sugar. Feed multiple small meals (if receiving insulin twice a day, a minimum of twice daily feedings should be done). Cats that nibble should receive free choice dry food. Overweight animals should be put on a weight reduction diet.
What do I need to know about insulin- are they all the same?
Different types are available with different lengths of duration. Different sources of insulin are available, including beef, beef/pork, and recombinant human insulin. Beef/pork is the most commonly used in dogs/cats. Usually SQ injections are done by owners at home once or twice daily.
Regular insulin (short acting, short lasting)- good for ER situations, and is
the only form that can be given IV and IM and SQ.
NPH and Lente: intermediate acting insulins: take 0-3 hours to work, and
last 4-10 hours. Usual starting insulin to maintain canines.
Ultralente:
long-acting. Cats are usually started on this once daily.
We are starting insulin, what
do we need to do to monitor my pet?
Its best to keep the animal in the hospital the first few days on insulin to monitor for abnormal glucose changes. If an animal is unusually sensitive to insulin, hypoglycemia can occur and the animal needs oral glucose (i.e. Kayo syrup). Usually blood glucose is checked ~3 x a day for the first few days, and then the animal is sent home. The first day short acting insulin may be needed to drop the levels down to normal, then maintenance intermediate insulin can be started (the same insulin type owners will use long-term at home) for the next day or two. After that, the pet can go home, and the owner can watch for signs of weakness, collapse, cold extremities, seizures- the most typical signs of hypoglycemia. After one week, the animal needs to return for a blood glucose curve.
OK- we did that… and the pet did great. Now we are back for our blood glucose curve- what are we looking for as a good indication of control?
That morning the animal should receive its insulin at home and fed a normal meal and then be brought into the clinic before 8 or 9a.m. Another option is to bring the pet into the clinic with the insulin, and check the glucose 1st, then administer the insulin and feed the pet. During the day, the blood glucose will be checked every 2-3 hours to watch a pattern. The perfect curve stays in the optimal range of peak <200-250 mg/dl and the low-point above 80 mg/dl. We want the low-point to occur exactly half-way between medications for the best average curve.
Example:
Fluffy receives 8 units of Humulin-N twice daily (8am and 8 pm) The perfect curve would be as follows:
8a.m.: 200mg/dl 2 p.m.: 100mg/dl
11 a.m.: 160 mg/dl 5 p.m.: 160 mg/dl
An example of a pet with good frequency but needs higher doses of insulin:
Fluffy receives 8 units of Humulin-N twice daily (8 am and 8 pm):
8a.m.: 359 mg/dl 2 p.m.: 200 mg/dl
11 am: 280 mg/dl 5 p.m.: 270 mg/dl
An example of a pet resistant to insulin (needs a different type, has a concurrent infection, Cushings or is a Type II diabetic):
Fluffy receives 8 units of Humulin-N twice daily (8 am and 8 pm):
8a.m.: 300 mg/dl 2 p.m.: 275 mg/dl
11 am: 286 mg/dl 5 p.m.: 290 mg/dl
My pet needed an adjustment in insulin based on the glucose curve… when should we repeat the curve again?
Its best to allow the pet to go home and adjust to the new insulin level for at least 1 week before retesting. My recommendation is to repeat the curve after any insulin change 1-2 weeks later.
My pet’s glucose curve was perfect, when should we recheck again?
Its best to check 1 month later, and if that is still acceptable, every 3-6 months thereafter. Return sooner if the pet starts to show signs of unregulated diabetes.
Why is it so critical to keep the glucose between 80-200?
If glucose rises above 200 persistently, it speeds the progression of cataracts, and allows abnormal body metabolism (weight loss, poor hair quality/muscle tone). It also increases risks for infections.
What can I do as an owner to help regulate my pet at home?
Administer the recommended insulin consistently at same time/frequency and feed multiple meals of a high fiber diet. Watch urine output, weight, appetite for any changes. If the animal has a seizure or collapses, rub kayo syrup on the gums (but be careful if risk of being bitten in a severe seizure) and bring animal into the clinic. If the pet stops eating well for some reason, only administer ½ recommended dose of insulin.
Treating the acute ketoacidotic critical diabetic
Often times, a diabetic pet is not diagnosed until another problem occurs causing a ketoacidotic crisis. This situation usually occurs due to a UTI, pneumonia, pancreatitis, or other problem. The animal is very sick (usually vomiting, diarrhea, collapse, weakness, etc.), and requires hospitalization with IV fluids (to rehydrate, give IV antibiotics, and flush/dilute out bacterial toxins and ketones from body). Ketones occur with abnormal fat metabolism and is a sign of severe nutritional imbalance. Other therapy includes potassium replacement, short-acting insulin to drop glucose levels quickly, and broad spectrum antibiotics. Once through this acute crisis, the pet can be handled as a regular diabetic patient.
Treating a Type II Diabetic (non-responsive to insulin)
This pet usually has less severe clinical signs, and less likely to have ketoacidotic events. Usually dietary change to a high fiber diet as well as glipazide (oral hypoglycemic medication) can help control a type II diabetic pet. It is important to rule out treatable causes of insulin resistance before making this diagnosis (try switching to different insulin types i.e. pork, beef, recombinant human insulin, check for Cushing’s disease, double check that the owner is properly storing, measuring, and administering insulin at home, etc. Once again, this condition is much more common in cats than dogs.
I. Screening for toxin exposure over the phone:
Plants
Rat Poisonings
Pesticides
Human Medications
Other miscellaneous items
Poinsettia
Mistletoe
Daffodils (Narcissus)
Easter Lilys (Easter Lily/ Tiger Lily)
Calcium Oxalate Plants (Philodendron, Caladium)
Crystals in tongue and gums
Japanese Yew
Aloe Vera
Calciferol/Cholecalciferol
Vitamin D Rodenticide poisonings--Quintox, Rampage, Mouse-Be-Gone
Anticoagulant rodenticide
(Difenacoum, Bromadiolone, Brodifacoum--Coumatetralyl, Contrac, Talon, Havoc, D-Con)
Pyrethrins/Permethrin
(insecticides) (originate from Chrysanthemum plant) (all have –chrysanthemate or –cyclopropane-ate, -fenvalerate, -benzacetate in name) house and garden insecticides and some OTC flea products)
Organophosphates and Carbamates
(chlorpyrifos (Dursban) usually have “phosph” in name somewhere, such as “phosphate, phosphorothioate, phosphoramide”) and Carbamates (methylcarbamoyl, methylcarbamate)
Metaldehyde
(molluscicides/snail bait)
Bromethalin
(Assult, Trounce, Vengeance)
Stychnine
Others:
Paraquat
DEET
Piperazine
Ivermectin
Amitraz
Fertilizers
Heart Medications
(Digoxin, Lasix, Blood Pressure Meds)
NSAIDs
(non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs)
Acetaminophen
(325 and 500 mg tablets)
Pseudoephedrine
Birth Control Pills
Chocolate
(Theobromine and Caffeine)
Clinical signs of vomiting, diarrhea, pancreatitis, seizures, cardiac arrhythmias and hyperexcitability can occur within 1-4 hours
Chart of Chocolate Doses:
Source Toxic Dose (10 kg dog) Toxic Dose (20 kg dog)
Unsweetened Cocoa 1-1.5 oz 3 oz
Baking Chocolate 2.5 oz 5 oz
Semisweet chocolate 7 oz 7 oz
Instant Cocoa 7 oz 7 oz
Milk Chocolate 20 oz 20 oz
Coffee (caffeine) 25 oz 50 oz
Ethylene Glycol
(Antifreeze, brake fluids, photographic solutions)
Smallest Lethal Dose:
5 kg dog: 25 mls
15 kg dog: 75 ml
30 kg dog: 150 mls
Cats > 1.5 mg/kg; 5 kg cat: 8 ml
Petroleum distillates
Thermometers
Lead Toxicity
Zinc Toxicity (swallowing pennies)
Garbage toxicity
VIII. Treatment Options:
Reduce absorption in stomach (Inducing vomiting (only useful before 2-4 hours post-exposure, depending on the type of material ingested):
** Do NOT induce vomiting in the following situations: epileptic animal, animal with decreased swallow reflex or unconscious, caustic or corrosive material, low viscosity material i.e. petroleum products). Do not induce in rabbits and rodents.
Gastric Lavage (stomach tube placed in clinic to siphon material out)
Activated charcoal (material to help bind toxins in stomach and reduce absorption (either administered via stomach tube or orally)
Dilute toxin effects in body
Supportive Treatment:
Control seizures, prevent dehydration, regulate temperature, treat cardiac arrhythmias, etc. Observe until stable.
Snakes
and Spiders: Venomous Bites
Contributed by Dr. Karl Kroenlein
Poisonous Snakes in Southwest VA:
Poisonous Spiders in Southwest VA:
Pit Vipers (Rattlesnakes, Copperheads)
What is venom meant to do?
What does venom do as a defense mechanism?
Snake Bites and dogs
Snake Bites and Cats
Clinical signs
What needs to be done?
Prognosis—most animals recover
Black
Widow (Lactrodectus)
What happens?
What you will see:
What needs to be done?
Prognosis—depends on severity at presentation (cats have a poorer prognosis than dogs)
Brown Recluse
(Loxosceles)
What happens?
What you will see:
What needs to be done?
Prognosis—usually heal, but takes weeks to months, often leaving a substantial scar
A Quick Guide to Common Reproductive Questions by Owners
(Giving Birth, Puppy Care, Pregnancy Care, etc.)
Pre-Breeding Recommendations:
Are there reasons I should not breed my animal? I think it would be fun to have one litter and spay/neuter.
Yes,
responsible ownership of a pet requires consideration of the pet overpopulation
and low shelter adoption rates currently in place. Current recommendations are
to avoid breeding unless your pet is exceptional example of the breed, with good
temperament, and excellent physical condition. Any congenital birth defects with
genetic predisposition, history of previous pelvic trauma predisposing to
difficult birthing process, history of large male bred to small female,
mismating (unintentional breeding to mix breed), or serious
metabolic/musculoskeletal disorders are all good reasons to not breed. Also,
having a litter of offspring increases the risk dramatically of mammary cancers
later in life compared to dogs and cats spayed before the first or second heat
cycle.
Are there any tests I should do on my registered purebred dog to make my puppies more valuable to potential buyers?
Yes- Depending on the breed. Check your specific breed’s guidelines with your veterinarian or national breed standards. (i.e.- German Shepherds and other large breeds predisposed to hip dysplasia should have OFA certification completed on the hips. This and other important genetic traits can be passed onto puppies/kittens. Physical exam to screen for physical defects is important.
I want to breed my dog, is there anything I can do to time the breeding for the best success rate?
Yes, for a dog to be
in the most fertile moment, they have to be in a specific stage of their heat.
Dogs go into heat in two parts: part one is proestrus where the bleeding and
swollen vulva are noticed. The second part is estrus when standing behavior for
the male is observed. This is when they are most fertile. We can test for this
using a hormone blood test. Other ways are to look for standing behavior, and
ensure a complete tie. Always do a male breeding soundness exam first (check
sperm motility/morphology and do a reproductive physical exam) Also, test for
Brucella on the stud dog (a sexually transmitted disease that can cause
prostatic infections in males, and abortions and other problems in females).
I think my dog is pregnant, I saw her tied to the neighbor’s dog, is there a shot to end the pregnancy or other termination options?
There IS a shot for pregnancy termination used in the past the next day after breeding; however it has some serious side effects including 50% risk of pyometras (uterine infections) and/or bone marrow suppression with multiple use.
The best option is to spay after the heat cycle is over if not intending on future breeding, or wait 30 days and confirm with ultrasound. 50% of animals seen tied do not have a pregnancy at 30 days, so many owners prefer to wait until this time to confirm pregnancy, and also this is the safest time to abort with a different combination of prostaglandin and other medications for the mother.
Pregnancy Management/Health:
Is it safe to give vaccines to a pregnant animal?
It is a greater risk during pregnancy to give a modified live vaccine. (i.e. Kennel Cough, distemper/parvo/lepto or FVRCPC). Killed vaccines such as rabies are safe for pregnant animals. Plan ahead and vaccinate before breeding. Vaccination before breeding helps improve the natural number of antibodies in the mother’s milk passed on to the puppies in the early weeks of life. Many life-threatening/debilitating defects can be avoided in the litter, (i.e. cerebellar hypoplasia from feline panleukopenia, myocarditis from parvovirus in puppies).
What should I feed my pregnant animal?
Pregnant animals and lactating animals have the greatest energy requirement stage of their life. They needs are often times 3x the regular diet needs of a non-pregnant/lactating animal. Use a good quality puppy food from pregnancy to the end of gestation.
When should I deworm my pregnant animal?
Before breeding, do a fecal to check for parasites, and treat accordingly. Maintain on HWP during pregnancy, and the risk of passing these parasites to the puppies will be minimized. Some vets also deworm within the last three weeks of pregnancy. (Mothers shed higher loads of roundworm and hookworm eggs around birth than other times.) This will also reduce exposure to the puppies. Puppies/kittens will not be FREE of parasites at birth with routine mother deworming, but the load is reduced significantly. Infection occurs transplacentally/transmammary, and the source is usually parasite stages encysted in the mother’s muscle from chronic infection.
Any other topical therapies I should avoid in a pregnant animal?
Do not use flea shampoos and conditioners during late pregnancy. Some of these products could potentially be toxic to the puppies if the puppies chew or suck on the skin during the first few days of life. Frontline has the lowest risk of any product on the market and is a good choice for the mother before birth. Reduce fleas on the mother to avoid risk of anemias in puppies by flea infestations at a young age. Puppies have less blood volume, and become anemic much more quickly to fleas and hookworms than adult animals. Always check with a veterinarian before giving any medication to a pregnant animal, as some can have serious birth defects/contraindications to puppies (i.e. Baytril- a common antibiotic can cause defects in growth plates of bone development in immature animals).
What is the average gestation length of a….
Dog: 56-70 days
Cat: 56-70 days
Guinea Pig: ~63 days
Mouse: 19-21 days
Rat: 21 days
Ferret: 42 days
Hamster: 16 days
Rabbit: 31 days
Gerbil: 26 days
I think my dog or cat is pregnant, how can I confirm this?
Abdominal
Ultrasound:
is the best method, anytime after ~25 days, the fetal heartbeats can be
detected, and an estimate of number of offspring can be determined. An
additional advantage is the ability to tell if the feti are alive or dead, and
if a spay should be performed for removal.
Abdominal
Radiographs:
can be used after 45 days, when bones begin to be calcified and appear on the
radiograph. This method is more accurate for counting the number of feti, and is
recommended one week before delivery for this important information. Also,
certain breeds are predisposed to a small birth canal, and the size of the
puppies can be measured to the pelvic bone opening to determine if a timed
caesarean is appropriate.
Progesterone Tests:
are not useful in
dogs, as dogs go into a pseudo(false) pregnancy with each heat cycle and can
test false positive to high progesterone. Also, dogs can produce milk, have
enlarged mammary glands, and mimic other signs of pregnancy as well.
Parturition/Giving Birth Management:
I think my dog/cat is getting ready to go into labor, what can I do to monitor this?
Some signs are fairly consistent for upcoming birth, including a drop in body temperature. When the level of progesterone drops in the body (the hormone of pregnancy), the body temperature also drops at least a degree. Typically a dog will give birth within 12 hours of a temperature drop to 99.5-100 Fahrenheit. (Normal temperature for a dog or cat is 101.5-103). Owners can buy a glass thermometer and check rectally twice a day in the last few days of pregnancy. Other signs include milk production from the glands, nesting and restless behavior (less accurate- some animals are shifting their weight due to discomfort and efforts to reposition the feti during late pregnancy), and spending time in dark closets/corners.
My animal is due to go into birth very soon, what should I do to make the process comfortable for the mother and babies?
Make a birthing area in a quiet secluded location in the house. Use a clean box or bed, cover with linens easily washable or disposable. Make sure the linens are clean with no fleas, parasites, or high loads of bacteria. If a heating pad is used for the babies, use only on low, and place a blanket between the pad and the animals to prevent burns. The top three killers of kittens/puppies are hypothermia, hypoglycemia, and and hypovolemia (too cold, no blood sugar, and dehydration). Ensuring a warm location helps with this. Also, watch puppies for adequate nursing during the first few hours to ensure water and nutritional intake. Also, colostrums (the first milk of the mother) is VERY important, as it contains passive immunity for fighting infections while the babies are developing their own immune system during their first few weeks.
My animal is in labor- what should I do?
Don’t panic! This is a natural miracle that has occurred since life began. Try not to intervene unless absolutely necessary. Often times, the entire family will want to stand over the mother in the excitement of the event- try to avoid excessive stress or attention to the mother to allow her to be calm and respond to her natural instincts. Mother instinct usually guides the process solo- it is better to allow the mother to lick the babies clean and chew the umbilical cord. Tying the cord is VERY DANGEROUS to the puppies- it does not allow adequate drainage and can cause severe infections. Also, sharp cutting with scissors is not indicated either, it allows a direct route for infection through the open end. Mothers usually pull and stretch the cord as cutting, reducing the functional opening of the cord and promoting natural closure of the site. If the puppies still have membranes covering the mouth/nose, free the airways of this material to stimulate breathing. If the puppies are weak and not breathing well, use a clean warm towel and stimulate with rubbing and drying of the puppies.
How long should labor take, what are some warning signs of problems with birth?
Time of birth can be very irregular- just ask your human mothers about their experiences! Usually, it takes between 2-4 hours for the entire process, with up to an hour between a puppy/kitten. If the mother appears to be weak, and not pushing after an hour or two, it may be a good idea to bring her in to check for a puppy caught in the birth canal. Also, the mother may need an injection of calcium or oxytocin (a hormone that increases birth contractions and milk letdown) or even a caesarean if the puppies are not being delivered naturally. If any foul smelling discharge occurs or if loose puppy/kitten hair is seen, these are signs of infection, and the mom needs to be seen at the clinic. Other warning signs include “breaking of the water”- a reddish-clear watery discharge and no subsequent delivery of puppies for over an hour; consistent straining/abdominal contractions of the mother over an hour with no puppy, or no labor after the approximate gestation time. The best preventative care for these common problems include ultrasound and abdominal radiographs to check for active fetal heart beats and to count the number of feti present to give more information for labor and what to expect. This way, if the mother stops having contractions after 3 puppies, and 6 were in the radiograph, the owner knows medial therapy is needed. It is always a good idea to check the mother with your vet after whelping within the first 24 hours (check for additional puppies in the birth canal, check the puppies for cleft palate, atresi ani, and other severe birth defects).
I own a bulldog and heard that they have special concerns with birth.
Bulldogs have abnormally small pelvic canals, and have great difficulty giving birth to puppies. Many knowledgeable breeders radiographs their bulldogs 1 week prior to birth to measure the size of the canal in order to decide if a timed caesarean would better indicated.
Newborn Care/Management
My puppies/kittens are not nursing after one to two hours, what can I supplement with for nutrition?
It is very important for newborns to nurse within the first few hours. Mom’s milk is best, because it contains COLOSTRUM- the passive immunity for the babies to support them against infections during the first few weeks while their own immune systems are developing. If they absolutely won’t nurse, supplement with artificial bitch or queen milk. Do not use cow milk- it does not have the appropriate ratio of protein/fat/carbohydrates and can cause life-threatening diarrhea. Come by the clinic and pick up a milk bottle and appropriate milk replacer. Warm to body temperature, but not in the microwave- can have hot spots in the liquid causing burns. Use a warm water bath instead for more uniform heating of the replacer. Test on your hand before giving.
When should my puppies/kittens first see the veterinarian?
If interested in tail docking, it is best to do as young as possible, around 2-5 days of age. Otherwise, the first visit can be at two weeks for the first deworming against roundworms and hookworms (which can be transmitted through the placenta or milk of the mother). If the newborns are showing signs of pale membranes, weakness, diarrhea, or lethargy, bring in immediately.
What are some common problems with newborns?
The top killers of puppies kittens are the big 3 H’s- hypoglycemia, hypovolemia, and hypothermia. (A fancy way to say low blood sugar, dehydration, and cold body temperatures). Help prevent this by deworming the mother before the last three weeks of pregnancy, making a warm quiet location for the delivery, and monitoring nursing/supplementing with nutrition if necessary.
Mom After Care
When should I spay my mother cat/dog after birth?
It is better to wait until after lactation is over, unless likely mating may happen before this period. They can be spayed after birth if necessary, but is not preferred during this high energy need time period, as well as lactation status (milk glands have to be incised during the surgery). If a caesarean is performed, spay at this time if no additional pregnancies are desired.
My pet just had puppies/kittens… how long until they go into heat again?
Dogs typically go into heat 2 x a year, and will return to estrus behavior 4-6 months after a litter. Cats are a little quicker, and can go back into heat 1-2 months after a litter. This is important, for to prevent unwanted pregnancies, a cat may need to be spayed before the end of lactation, while a dog has more time to finish lactation to be spayed.
My mother dog has some greenish-brown discharge from the vulva after delivery a few days later. Is this normal?
This is the afterbirth discharge called “lochia”. It is common, and should progress to a reddish-brown, to a clear color. If it is foul smelling, thick, and/or yellow with additional signs of inappetance, lethargy, fever over 103, and/or vomiting/diarrhea- bring in immediately. Could be an impending pyometra (uterine infection).
My mother dog is not producing milk or the puppies are not gaining weight. What should I do?
The mother needs a physical to determine if the problem is lack of milk production, or bad milk (mastitis- mammary infection). If the puppies are not gaining weight, it could be due to one of these two problems, or lack of instinct to nurse. Observe for successful nursing behavior of the puppies (check for suckle reflex), and look at the quality of the milk produced by the gland. Treatment may be necessary for the mother to either treat infection or stimulate increased milk production. Supplementation may be necessary with imitation milk products.
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