For Your Information Articles #1
Basic Cage Requirements
Minimum
height, width, & length measurements should be 1/3 the length of the snake
Cage
should be sturdy, escape-proof and lockable
Internal
surfaces should be impervious to water, to facilitate cleaning and sanitization
* Do
not use Lysol or similar products - they can injure the skin
* Clean at least every 2 weeks;
remove snake, wash enclosure with a 200ppm of Clorox solution
Internal surfaces should be relatively smooth to prevent
injury to skin and eyes
* Avoid
hardware cloth
*
Avoid exposed nails or screws
A rock, brick, or branch can be included to aid in
shedding/removal of skin
Cage litter can include paper, newspaper and astroturf
*
Pine bark mulch and corncob bedding can contain fungal organisms
*
Pea gravel increases retention of moisture in cages, leading to skin problems
*
* *
Gravel and corncob bedding might be ingested, leading to intestinal impaction
A hiding box; tree branches if arboreal
A heat source (described below)
Water bowl or pool
Temperature
Ideal room temperature between
70-85F
Cage
temperature may need to be in the high end of the range
Using
heat sources (i.e.heat lamps, hot rocks, heating pad, space heater terrarium heater),
establish temperature gradient/zones in cage.
*
This allows snake to select temperature it is most comfortable in at any given time
*
Provide barrier between snake and heat lamp bulb to prevent contact and thermal burns
*
Don't overheat the cage, since snakes cannot rid themselves of excess heat in a hot
environment, and this will lead to heat stroke and death
Don't place cage in direct sunlight since cage
temperatures can increase dramatically
Avoid temperature extremes and severe fluctuations
*
Low temperatures lead to inappetance, incomplete digestion, delayed wound healing, and
increases disease susceptibility
*
High temperatures may cause shedding problems and heat stroke
Water and Humidity
Ideal
humidity in range of 35-60%RH
*
Low humidity - problems with shedding
*
High humidity - contributes to "blister disease" and other dermatopathies
Fresh water should always be available
*
Add fresh water daily
*
Sanitize water bowl weekly in a 20ppm Clorox solution
Some snakes,
(boids and pythons), like soaking pools which aid
in shedding and defecation
Water containers and pools should be sturdy and tip-proof;
avoid spillage into bedding
Keep cage clean and dry
Feeding
Captive diet should mimic natural diet - all snakes
are carnivorous
*
Rats or mice for adults; pinkie/newborn mice for young specimens
*
Garter, ribbon, and water snakes will eat fish, frogs, salamanders, toads, and
earthworms
Some snakes require
live/moving prey - they can be taught to accept dead prey
*
Always watch live prey - remove if snake is not hungry or if live rodent threatens to bite
the snake
Don't handle the snake for several days after feeding to
prevent spontaneous regurgitation
Young snakes may be fed 1-2 times per week; older
animals may be fed once weekly or twice monthly
*
Avoid overfeeding, since obesity can cause health problems
*
Animals may not eat when cold or they may decrease intake during winter months
*
Snakes with opaque spectacles prior to shedding usually don't eat
*
With excessive handling, gravid snakes, or snakes with illnesses may not eat
Light
Light
cycles are important - don't leave heat lamps or lights on for 24 hours a day
If UV (black) lights are used, limit exposure to 20 minutes
twice weekly
Preferred lights for UV exposure are "Vitalite"
fluorescent bulbs - helps in Vitamin D/calcium metabolism
They can be used safely for longer periods than regular UV (black)
lights
Shedding
Frequency of shedding associated with frequency and quantity
of feeding
Eyes, (spectacles), become opaque about 7 days prior to
shedding, and clear 36-48 hours before shedding
Include
a brick or branch in cage to aid in shedding
Shedding begins at head - skin should come off as one long
everted tube
Difficulty in shedding
(dysecdysis)
*
Associated with high temperature and low humidity
* Spectacles (scales) over the eyes may be retained and require
removal
* Soaking/bathing in warm water may facilitate
removal of retained skin patches
WHAT ARE THESE VIRUSES?
Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficency Virus(FIV) are two of the most important viruses that affect cats. Both weaken a cat's immune system, causing diseases that are eventually fatal. Illnesses such as non-responsive anemia, chronic respiratory and periodontal infections, lymphosarcoma (tumor), leukemia and other blood cell cancers can often be traced to infection with one of these viruses.
HOW DO CATS CONTRACT THESE VIRUSES?
FeLV and FIV are
contagious from cat to cat - FeLV by such casual activities as licking or grooming, and
even from the mother cat to her unborn kittens - FIV usually by bites from infected cats.
Because it often takes an extended period, (months or years), before illness caused by
FeLV and FIV is manifested, it is vital to identify pets that have been exposed as early
as possible. For this reason, we often recommend testing a cat or kitten for FeLV &
FIV whenever we think the pet is "at risk" for these diseases. We should test:
1) A new cat or kitten in the family whose mother has not previously tested negative, or
with an unknown health history
2) A cat with a chronic or unresponsive illness that suggests a compromised immune system
3) A cat that has experienced a bite wound or abscess.
CAN WE PREVENT THESE VIRUSES?
We are fortunate that a safe and effective vaccine is available against Feline Leukemia Virus. This protection is part of our feline vaccination protocol. Unfortunately, there is no vaccine against the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus, but keeping your cat as an indoor pet and testing any new cat or kitten before bringing it into the home will help prevent exposure to this devastating virus.
AGE OF DOG (YEARS) EQUIVALENT AGE OF MAN
1 |
15 |
2 |
24 |
3 |
26 |
4 |
32 |
5 |
36 |
6 |
40 |
7 |
44 |
8 |
48 |
9 |
52 |
10 |
56 |
11 |
60 |
12 |
64 |
13 |
68 |
14 |
72 |
15 |
76 |
16 |
80 |
Would you know what to do if your pet was choking, broke a leg or swallowed poison? You may know more than you think, but let's assume you don't.
1) First, restrain your animal. An injured animal may not react predictably. Using a muzzle is the safest way to control your dog. If you don't have one, construct one out of 2 inch gauze about 3 feet long. Make a loose circle of gauze around the dog's nose and tie with a half-knot on the bridge of the nose. Loop the ends back under the jaw and tie another half-knot. Take the long ends in back of the ears and secure with a bow knot.
2) For bleeding, the best option is to apply direct pressure with clean gauze. If in an area where bandaging is possible, wrap firmly with stretch gauze. Transport to your veterinarian as soon as possible.
3) For fractures or dislocations, immobilize the body parts as best possible being aware that an improperly applied splint can do more damage than none at all. Sometimes transporting in a well-padded box is best - especially for small pets.
4) If your pet is exposed to poison, wash off residual external poison. Contact your veterinarian on the advisability and procedures for inducing vomiting. See your veterinarian promptly and take the box the poison was in with you.
5) For choking, you may try to remove it manually from the mouth if the object is visible and if it can be done safely. If not, modifications of the Heimlich maneuver may be performed. Ask your veterinarian to demonstrate the proper way for this to done on your pet. Transport immediately to your veterinarian - minutes can make the difference!
Every pet owner should have a PET FIRST AID KIT.
Here are some of the items
that should be
included:
1) Name
and telephone number of your veterinarian and the local emergency clinic
2) First aid book for pets
3) Antiseptic powder or ointment
4) Gauze roll bandages
5) Gauze telfa pads
6) Boric acid eye wash solution
7) Hydrogen peroxide
8) Adhesive tape
9) Styptic powder
10) Thermometer
11) Safety scissors
12) Cotton balls and Q-tips
13) Cleansing or antiseptic soap
How to Avoid Transmission of Worms From Pets to People
Pet owners
sometimes worry about getting "worms" from pets. It is possible, but
preventable by simple measures. There are several different worms that can infect
dogs and cats. People, usually children, can become infected with pet-associated
worms by:
1) Ingesting parasite eggs from soil,
hands or objects contaminated by dog or cat feces. Roundworms (Toxocara canis and
cati) and tapeworms (Echinococcus spp.) can be spread in this manner. Most cases
involve young children eating dirt contaminated with animal feces.
2) Direct skin contact with hookworm
larvae (Ancyclostoma spp.) from soil contaminated by dog or cat feces.
3) Ingesting a flea harboring larvae of
the dog and cat tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Spread of infection to human beings
is rare.
PREVENTION
To prevent human
infection with pet-associated worms:
1)
Deworm pups early. Pups
may start passing roundworm eggs as early as three weeks of age. Deworm, under
veterinary direction, all pups at two to three weeks of age and repeat treatment every two
weeks until the pups are three months old. The mother dog should be treated at the
same time the pups are wormed. Cat roundworms do not start laying eggs as quickly as
dog roundworms. Therefore, deworming kittens, beginning at six weeks of age is
sufficient from a public health standpoint.
2)
Keep children away from contamination. Keep young children away from areas contaminated with
feces and encourage them to wash their hands after play and before eating. Sandboxes
should be covered when not in use. Prevent children from eating dirt.
3) Have new pets checked. Have your veterinarian do a physical exam, including a fecal test, as soon
as you acquire a new cat or dog. Pups and kittens acquired at six to eight weeks of
age should be dewormed at least twice, two weeks apart.
4) Have adult pets checked annually. Have
your veterinarian check a stool sample from adult pets once a year, as part of an annual
physical exam.
5) Advocate community measures. Support
ordinances aimed at preventing indiscriminate defecation by dogs and cats.
Finally, be aware that there are other ways people can become infected with intestinal parasites (worms). People can also "get worms" from other people and from eating undercooked meat or seafood.
SPAYING AND NEUTERING----Q and A
Will
spaying/neutering cause my pet to become overweight and lazy?
Heredity, diet, how much and what type of exercise your pet receives has much more influence on the weight and attitude of your pet than does the surgery.
Is the spay/neuter surgery dangerous?
There is always some risk while a patient is under general anesthesia, whether the patient be human or animal. Veterinary procedures are very similar to human medical procedures. The risk is very small in healthy animals.
Should I wait until my pet has matured or had a litter?
NO! The earlier this surgery is done, the better it is for your pet. Your pet's health and behavior will be improved with early spaying and neutering. Spaying early also eliminates the risk of possible birthing complications.
When, then, is the best time to have my pet spayed or neutered?
The best age for spaying or neutering is around six months of age. The first heat cycle in a female usually occurs around this time. Spaying your pet before her first heat cycle greatly reduces the risk of breast tumors and/or cancer. Neutering your pet prevents perineal hernias and many undesirable behavior patterns. It is always easier to prevent these behavior patterns that to correct them. It also eliminates urine odor of male cats.
TEN COMMON SIGNS OF CANCER IN SMALL ANIMALS
Abnormal swellings that persist or continue to grow
Sores that do not heal
Weight loss
Loss of appetite
Bleeding or discharge from any body opening
Offensive odor
Difficulty eating or swallowing
Hesitation to exercise or loss of stamina
Persistent lameness or stiffness
Difficulty breathing, urinating, or defecating
These signs are not specific for cancer; other problems can have the same symptoms. These symptoms are an indication to have your pet examined to make sure cancer or another serious disease is not present.
KERATOCONJUNCTIVITIS SICCA (KCS) or Dry Eye
What is It?
Keratoconjunctivitis sicca is a common disorder affecting the eye in dogs and cats. This condition is the result of inadequate tear production. Normal tear production is essential for good eye health. A deficiency in tears can lead to serious and sometimes permanent eye problems, such as blindness. This condition can be diagnosed and usually treated relatively easily with long-term medical therapy. The tear film is important for these reasons:
1. Helps
in the removal of debris from the eye.
2. Supplies nutrition to the eye surface.
3. Provides moisture and lubrication to
the eye.
4. Helps fight bacterial contamination in
the eye
Clinical Signs of KCS-Dry Eye Can be Very Painful
Early Signs:
Long-standing Signs:
Diagnosis: A quick, painless, easy to perform test is available to check tear production.
Causes:
Treatment: Fortunately, most dry eye is treatable but requires life long therapy. Tear production usually increases within the first few weeks of twice-a-day therapy with a drug called cyclosporine applied to the eye surface. An occasional "late-responder" occurs and may take a few extra weeks to see a response.
Failure to respond to medical treatment is rare. Other options, such as surgery, are available if necessary.
It is recommended not to breed affected animals since this disease may be inherited.
FOR YOUR AVIAN & EXOTIC PETS AS WELL AS YOUR DOG OR CAT
Permanent identification for your exotic companion (and your dog and cat) is an important way to retrieve your pet if he becomes lost or stolen. Valley Animal Hospital provides a safe and universal method of making sure your friend is protected: the AVID microchip.
Other methods, such as tattooing and banding can be altered or removed. A microchip is undetectable from the outside, but will stay with your pet it's entire life. A tiny glass-coated transponder is injected much like a vaccine under the skin using sterile technique. To read this chip, a special scanner is passed over the microchip site and your pet's code number will be instantly displayed.
Most veterinarians in the Roanoke area, animal control officers and all SPCA's have scanners for this purpose. AVID provides each pet with a certificate that has his or her specific code. The code is registered nationally in multiple databases, so if your pet turns up after being lost or stolen, Valley Animal Hospital or you can be contacted.
If microchipping is of interest to you, contact us at 540-366-3433 for details or to schedule your pets appointment.
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